A happy-go-lucky English rambler dude goes to New Zealand for a year. Here he interfaces with some of those he left behind and details his nefarious activities. Or summat.
Recently clicked on MP3s - 7th June 2005 The Lucksmiths - Warmer Corners
Jens Lekman - When i said i wanted to be your dog
The Trashcan Sinatras - Weightlifting
Teenage Fanclub - Man Made
Laura Veirs - Carbon Glacier
The Decemberists - Picaresque
The Eels - Blinking Lights
Thursday, August 15, 2002
My week in Vancouver is just about over, so what else have i been up to, other than watching big gay fireworks displays and grooving to weird Icelandic bands?
I went to the cinema the other night, and watched 'The road to Perdition'. The gangster subject area is a bit of a departure from American Beauty, for Sam Mendes, but it's done in a similar style, and is very enjoyable.
The plot was almost a direct copy of a certain classic British Gangster film, which i won't name here, as it would totally give away the ending. And maybe police crime-detection levels in thirties America weren't great, but I think they would have paid slightly more attention to all the wholesale slaughter that was going on at times, than was shown in the film. Good stuff though.
Yesterday i went for a bit of excercise by climbing the 'Grouse Grind' as fast as i could, which was actually quite slowly by the end. The Grouse grind is a well used, super steep route up Grouse mountain, just outside of town. Lots of people use it as a training run, and the whole thing is made more competitive & fun by having smart card machines at the top and bottom to time your run. Your time then pops up on a screen in the cable car station at the top, and is shown along side the best for the day, season etc. Quite a good motivation to drag your ass up there just a little bit quicker. I made it in 64 minutes, not a patch on the record 26mins, and would have placed me 424 out of 492 people in last years race there, probably somewhere in the middle of the 50+ ladies competitors, yay!
I've also spent quite a bit of time ambling around town, trying and failing to find the world's thinnest building, i suppose it must really very thin indeed. Annoyingly it's in an extremely rough part of town, not an place where you want to hang around, staring gormlessly at your Lonely Planet for too long. In fact one of the things that has struck me about Vancouver is the horrendous number of bums hassling you for money all the time. Apparently it has such a bad problem as it's the warmest place in Canada, and the only place that you can be homeless and live through the winter.
Even so, i'm sure not all of the people hassling you are homeless, some even have signs saying "Need $$$'s for pot". (Reminds me, i was stopped by a guy in Hawaii asking for money so he could go to the cinema! - er, piss off mate)
A lot of their signs totally confused me, as they asked for, "A Loonie to get me through the night". Eh? Until I realised that Loonie is the Canadian slang for a one dollar coin.
Anyway, after a year in virtually homelessness free NZ, i'm getting a bit fed up with it. First I felt sad for them, then guilty that I wasn't helping them more and finally just pissed off with being hassled wherever i went. So i'm happy to report i'm getting away from Vancouver, and my 18-30's hostel, and getting out into the real Canada, bears and all, on a 7-day cycle tour!
It was supposed to be a big group thing, but apparently i'm the only person that's booked for it :oS However i've had a chat to the bloke running it (Sadly a cockney), and he seems like a fairly chatty, positive, entertaining type, so fingers crossed we won't be feeding each other to the bears after 2 days. I would write more about it here, but i've got to go and get packed up, and get a bit of kip really, so this link will have to suffice (Oh, i'm not doing the Yoga bit though). This is the guy i'll be with, and as his London - Australia ride is slightly more bad-ass than my Christchurch - Akaroa ride, he can carry the tent!
Nuts. My trainers have picked a bad night to fall to pieces.
8:09 am Wednesday, August 14, 2002
Went to the Mum gig last night (How cool is that? Going to see an Icelandic band in Vancouver), wonderful in every possible way.
The venue, 'Richard's on Richards', was nicely laid out (I watched the gig from up on a balcony), had plenty of character, and a cool red brick wall behind the band, that you seem to see in loads of North American venues. I learnt however, that in a previous, slightly seedier, life it was called Dicks on Dicks, ahem, and a had an entirely different clientele). Click here for pics of the venue.
As well as a good looking venue, the band themselves were fairly intruiging in appearance. The three lads all wore matching heavy metal band t-shirts, and the two twin sisters in the group both looked like extras from a BBC adaptation of The Railway children - petticoats a go-go!
Last but not least, they sounded incredible too. Obviously a talented bunch (Swapping instruments willy-nilly), they were playing the most bizarre range on instruments i've ever seen on the same stage. Cello's, guitars, keyboards, Moogs, an accordian, a kids-mini-air-keyboard-thing (Not sure if that's it's proper name) and the drummer's kit included a colander, dustbin lid, a strange clicky thing that he had to wind up as well as a cymbal that he raised and lowered into a bucket of water while playing it. Impressive.
I was slightly worried that their music might not have been that entertaining to watch/hear live, but it wasn't nearly as ambient as i had imagined, and the band were great to watch. They certainly can't be described as an ambient Belle and Sebastian anyway! I'd say it was more like the theme music to an underwater mystery film, where a Sperm Whale detective goes around investigating aquatic intrigue, and having adventures. Possibly. They were great anyway, and their cd is now high on my shopping list.
8:53 pm Monday, August 12, 2002
Although i may have been a stick in the mud when it came to going to fireworks displays in the past, when I found out that the Grand finale of the 'World championships' of fireworks displays was taking place in Vancouver last night, i couldn't really pass up the chance to go along.
I headed down there with a couple of lads from my room at the Global Village backpackers, who oddly seemed like two younger versions of a certain James Gates - Weezer t-shirts and Hair gel galore. I'm sure JG will be upset by this, but they were actually bigger Weezer fans than him, as their whole trip was arranged around Weezer's recent US tour, where they went to three gigs, as well as getting backstage to meet Rivers Cuomo - hardcore!
Did anyone go to the game? What was the ground like? Were we as good as it seems? What's up with the Omen theme?
Go Deano!
Even the Hawks won too!
9:49 pm
Bad news - i'm not in Hawaii anymore.
Good news - i'm in Canada - hurrah!
Vancouver seems like a fairly happening type of place thus far, and as is traditional i'm living in the Red light district.
All i've found out about the place so far is that there's an excellent, cheap pizza place down the road from the hostel - huge slices for $1.50 and run by a comedy New Yoik Eyetalian, who i expected to scream, "Quit bustin' my bawls!" at any second, at his overworked kitchen staff.
Also there's a Mum gig in town on Tuesday, which i may go to if i'm still here. Never actually heard any of their stuff, but an ambient, Icelandic, Belle and Sebastian can't be bad. (According to young Craig anyway).
Not quite worked out what i'll be doing here yet - i'm just off out to buy a Lonely Planet, but i'd imagine rambling, mountain biking and just maybe, Paragliding will be on the agenda.
9:31 pm Thursday, August 08, 2002
I survived the worst that Kilauea could throw at me. Which turned out to be a slow ooze of lava, and an awful lot of steam where the poor unsuspecting Pacific washed up onto a load of 2000c liquid rock - ouch!
The road leading to the lava flow was rather surreal, a perfectly good highway, until you came up to a huge, black field of congealed lava, leading from the summit all the way to the ocean.
Who left that lava lying around?
Driving over here, on the wrong side of the road, has been an experience in itself. At first it completely spun me out and i ended up taking several detours to avoid being the first person at the lights having to turn left. It was also hard to stop youself using the left wing mirror as the rear view, reaching for the belt in the middle of the car and opening the passenger door, only to notice the complete absence of a steering wheel. Nnngah!
By the time i went back to the airport, i just about had the hang of it, and was overtaking plenty of big-ass chevy pick ups. I didn't have much choice though, as i was unsurprisingly late for my flight back to Oahu.
[Warning to non ramblers - In depth account of hiking expedition follows]
Despite being slightly put off by peoples reactions when i told them i was thinking of climbing Mauna Kea, "What! Walk, up there! You can get 4WD tours up you know?", i decided to go for it. I didn't even let the fact that it was off limits for my hire car stop me.
It's not often you get the chance to climb a 4,205 metre mountain, so it had to be done.
The road up there was windy, desolate and steep, but the car was fine - until i parked up at the observatory visitor centre, when the engine coolant stuff boiled over, leaving a large, green puddle underneath the car, whoops! But i didn't let a potentially knackered car put me off, and after an hours acclimatisation i set off for the top. (Starting at 3000metres, higher than my previously biggest mountain! And no it's NOT cheating, SHUT UP!)
The first parts of the climb, were pretty steep, loose, scree, not too tough, but before long the first symptoms of altitude sickness started to kick in. To begin with i just felt slightly absent minded, and a little dizzy, but gradually got shorter and shorter of breath and my legs began to feel like lead.
As ever though, i just kept plodding away, picking my way through numerous volcanic cones, and passing a lake where the locals used to throw their babies umbilical cords, to guarantee them good luck, or possibly due to them all being completely mental.
Eventually though i popped out into 'Millimetre valley', the home of the world's top observatories. I would have loved to have a better look around them all, but only had the energy to look at the ones that the path went right next to.
I thought once i could see the observatories i'd be almost there, but no, a further hour or so of ass-dragging and wheezing was required to get to the top, occasionally being passed by 4WD's full of smug looking astronomers. I spent as long as i could do at the summit, but a rather vicious altitude related headache had begun to drill it's way through my brain, convincing me that i should go and seek out more oxygen immediately. The fact that it would be dark in 3 hours was also a deciding factor.
In traditional style, i made it back to the road just as it got totally dark. (If there's one thing i've learnt about hiking this year, it's make sure you're on a road by the time it gets dark - NOT stuck in a gorse bush, with a low power torch and an Australian. In the rain)
Even better, the car still seemed to be alive, though i kept the heaters on for as long as i could bear, to prevent any more overheating, with the limited amount of coolant i had left.
The gubbins lying around on top of Mauna Kea
[Tedious rambling stuff ends]
Back on the mainland of Oahu, i've been keeping busy. Rented a road bike today, and rode around the mostly gorgeous coastal road to Waimanapolu(?) Beach park and back, about 40 miles. Not bad, but i had to take several snooze stops on beaches along the way, so i doubt i'll be much of match for you Rob, on my return home :o(
Spending my last day in Hawaii in a slightly more relaxed fashion, watching my mate Dave do all the hard work in the World Ultimate Championships. Go DAVE!!
11:24 am Saturday, August 03, 2002
Aloha! Would you belive i'm writing this (Into a notebook) sitting under a Palm tree on Waikiki beach? Not bad!
The surf's not particularly up today, so there aren't many surfers about. There are however plenty of sun bathers and tourist geeks hanging around the beach.
Not sure if Waikiki is my cup of tea really, there's just too many people & hi-rise hotels (Driving into it at night you'd think you were on the outskirts of Birmingham rather than Hawaii)
However, when you've got your own palm tree, egg sandwich and the excellent new Bic Runga (That's pronounced Rung-ger isn't it Dan?) album on your cd player you can't really complain about life can you?
View from Diamond Head, where i climbed up to today
Things could be getting even better tomorrow, as i'm hoping to organise a flight out to the Big Island, to go and check out the live volcano, yes that's live pop pickers, Kilauea. As well as the observatories on top of the 4000m Mauna Kea. I may have a crack at walking up it, but the heat & humidity here is caning me just walking around town, so i'm not sure an attempt to almost double the height of my highest mountain is entirely sensible. Having said that, i've taken part in numerous less than sensible mountaineering expeditions, so you never know....
Kilauea - Safe for all the family!
PS, i'm pondering coming home a few days early to catch the last Darren Hanlon show in London. That's how good he is ok? But it depends on how things go in Canada. And if i can be arsed.
11:40 am Thursday, August 01, 2002
Hi, i'm Darren Hanlon, and I ROCK!
I know my taste in music is often derided by friends at home, (and now by people all over the world actually) But this time I'M RIGHT, ok?
Darren Hanlon, label mate of The Lucksmiths - is ACE (If time allowed i'd bang on about his witty, intelligent lyrics and super catchy, melodic pop songs, but it doesn't, so i won't) So if you happen to be in the UK in the next few weeks go and see him playing live, for gawd's sake. He's touring all over the place (See details here), and would be well worth the trip to Nottingham you pop fans in Lestar.
Click here for audio clips etc, if you need further proof. Honestly, this isn't another Cope situation ok? ;o) Hanlo' ROCKS!
Friday Aug 16
Darren Hanlon
with James William Hindle Palmer's Bar
Brighton, UK
Monday Aug 26 Darren Hanlon
with The Lollies,Liberty Ship
Doors 7:30pm Junktion 7, Canning Circus
Nottingham, UK
11:20 am
Well, it's my last night in Aussie so i suppose i should fill you in on all the exciting, action packed activities i've been up to since i last posted on here.
I'd love to, but unfortunately the most extreme thing i've done in the last few days is to, er, play a round of, ahem, golf.
Honestly, i tried to go Paragliding, but unfortunately i underestimated just how out of season Apollo bay would be. The weather seemed fine to me, but i suppose for the poor Aussies it's just too cold, so sadly everything was shut down. Except the golf course anyway.
Apart from indulging in extreme-golf (Oh wow, it actually exists!), i played chess with semi-professional dutch hockey players and went for the odd pre-breakfast jog down the beach. All very relaxing, and just what i needed before heading off to the hectic lifestyle of Hawaii tomorrow ;op
Thanks again to everyone who's made my time in Aussie so much fun & so much less hard work than it would have been otherwise - Tom, Aimee, Gill, The Lucksmiths, the bloke with 7 kids by 5 different women running the hostel in Katoomba (No really - eek), Emma, Phoebe - Netball Ninja extraordinaire, Georgina, Scott (Despite being a Brizzy fan), the weirdos on the Trams and last but not least Lilly Pilly.
10:50 am
Depressingly since leaving NZ, and my mobile phone, behind i've come to realise just how useful the annoying little things are.
For instance, if i had a mobile phone over here Emma and I could have avoided waiting for each other on the wrong street corners for half an hour, on a rather chilly Melbourne night. (To be specific, i would have realised I was on the wrong street corner a bit sooner.)
However the train journey out to Geelong has shown up their dark side. I was attempting to take in the passing Aussie countryside, and groove to the sounds of Melbourne's finest - Nick Cave, but was constantly bothered by the crackles of text message interference. Roughly every 10 mins someone nearby would get a texty (As they're called over here) and a series of loud cracky-cracky-crack noises would go off in my headphones, completely RUINING the gentle ambience of Nick's delicate songs, er honest.
[Note to Monstar / Keyghost boffins: Are Cellphone insulated headphones a possiblity? You could sell a pair to me anyway]
